Installing an interlock driveway is a rewarding project that adds both curb appeal and durability to your home. Whether you're replacing aging asphalt or creating a brand-new entrance, interlocking pavers offer a long-lasting, low-maintenance solution with design flexibility and a premium look.

In this step-by-step guide, you'll learn exactly how to install interlocking pavers for your driveway — from excavation and base preparation to laying the final paver and applying joint sand. Let’s get started.

Why Choose Interlocking Pavers for Driveway Installation?

Interlocking driveway pavers are the gold standard for DIYers who want performance and design flexibility. Here's why they're a smart choice:

• Durability: Designed to handle vehicular weight and resist cracking better than poured concrete or asphalt.
• Aesthetic appeal: With many modern driveway pavers available, you can tailor the look to match your home.
• Repairability: If a paver cracks or shifts, simply lift and replace it — no patching required.
• Eco-friendly: Permeable interlocking pavers help reduce water runoff and support proper drainage.

Plus, pavers offer more longevity compared asphalt driveways, making them ideal for homeowners looking for lasting value.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

💡 Van Beek’s also rents heavy-duty equipment like plate compactors and masonry saws — perfect for cutting and compacting pavers efficiently.

Planning Your Interlock Driveway Design

Measure and Mark

Use a tape measure, stakes, and string line to outline the size and shape of your driveway. Always plan for a 6–8" extension beyond the finished paver edge for stability and edge restraint installation.

Design Tips

• Go as wide as your property allows — aim for 16–20 ft wide if possible.
• Choose modern driveway pavers that complement your home's exterior.
• Use contrasting driveway border pavers to frame the layout and add visual structure.
• Blend aesthetic with function: straight driveways are easier to install, but curves can add elegance.

Before You Begin:

• Contact local utilities for a locate check.
• Check municipal bylaws for permits.
• Pre-order materials and schedule delivery with Van Beek’s to avoid project delays.

How to Excavate and Prepare the Base

Excavation is critical for long-term stability.

1. Determine soil type and drainage. Clay-based soils need deeper excavation than sandy soils.
2. Excavate to required depth. Generally, plan for 12–16 inches total (including base, bedding, and pavers).
3. Extend the excavation 6–8 inches beyond the finished driveway edge to allow for edge restraints.

Installing the Base Material (Van Beek’s Recommended Method)

A properly installed base is essential to the long-term durability and stability of your interlock driveway. Most issues like sinking, shifting, or rutting stem from poor base prep — so take your time here and do it right.

Van Beek’s recommends the following layered system:

Step 1: Compact the Native Soil

• After excavation, use a plate compactor (available for rent at Van Beek’s), or a hand tamper to firmly compact the native or graded soil.
• The goal is to reduce air pockets and provide a stable foundation for the base layers.
• Walk the compactor in overlapping passes across the entire surface, and repeat for 2–3 passes.

Pro Tip: If the subsoil is clay-heavy or holds water, consider adding a layer of landscaping fabric over the compacted soil to improve separation and drainage.

Step 2: Install Landscaping Fabric

• Roll out landscaping fabric across the entire compacted area, overlapping any seams by 6–12 inches.
• The fabric acts as a barrier between the subsoil and base material, preventing the gravel from migrating into the soil and reducing weed growth.

Step 3: Add 3" of 3/4" Clear Gravel or Limestone Crush

• Begin spreading 3 inches of 3/4" Clear Gravel, limestone crush, or recycled concrete to form the first lift (layer).
• Use a rake and shovel to distribute the material evenly.
• Keep a slight slope (about 1–2%) away from your house or garage to allow water to run off

Step 4: Compact the First Layer

• Use the plate compactor to compact this 3" lift thoroughly
• Make a minimum of three passes in alternating directions to lock the stone into place.
• Ensure each pass overlaps the last by about 50% for full coverage.

🛠️ Tip: Check your grade using a level on a long board. Adjust gravel height as needed before compacting.

Step 5: Repeat With Another 3" Layer

• Spread a second 3" lift of gravel on top of the compacted layer.
• Rake the surface flat, maintaining the desired slope.
• Compact this layer just like the first — with at least three passes of the plate compactor.

Step 6: Screed the Gravel Base

• Using a straight edge or screed bar, level out the top surface of the compacted gravel.
• Double-check your slope to make sure water will drain away from buildings or other structures.
• This surface should be flat, firm, and ready to receive the bedding layer.

Step 7: Add 2" of High Performance Bedding (HPB) or Screenings

• Spread High Performance Bedding evenly over the compacted gravel base.
• HPB is an open-graded aggregate that provides excellent drainage and workability.
• Avoid excessive depth — 2 inches is ideal. If you go too thick, your pavers may shift over time.

Step 8: Screed the HPB for a Uniform Bedding Layer

• Place 1" O.D. pipes or rails across the surface to guide your screed.
• Use a screed board or straight aluminum bar to level the HPB by pulling it across the guides.
• Carefully remove the pipes and fill the voids with more HPB, smoothing it out without disturbing the surface.

🚫 Do NOT walk on the screeded bedding layer.If needed, use plywood sheets to distribute your weight and prevent disturbing the bedding base